hakone, japan
2 days 1 night itinerary with the Hakone Freepass
SOME QUICK LINKS:
Hakone Freepass (2 or 3 days, we got 2 days)
Hakone hotel: Hakone Kowakien Ten-yu
Shinjuku hotel: WPU Hotel
Ginza hotel: remm plus Ginza
Travel date: mid-December 2024
5% KLOOK discount code for select hotels and activities: KATRINAGEMKLOOK
Note about the Freepass:
We decided to go for the 2-day Hakone Freepass (6,500 yen) which offers includes base train fare to and from Shinjuku Station, as well as the ropeway, sightseeing cruise, cable cars and bus fares operated by the Odakyu Line in Hakone. We also upgraded to the Romancecar for reserved seating (+1,200 yen). More details on their website.
We bought the digital tickets which you’ll need a smartphone to activate on the day you’ll be using them, and will need data/wifi to refresh the website with the QR code as bus operators will check for the refreshed page with the time and date (no screenshots allowed).
Regarding luggage on the train: We tried the GSE and EXE trains and while there is space for big luggages, it’s still best to bring a small carry-on or backpack/duffle incase the spaces gets full. There is space to put the carry-on above your seat although sizes vary depending on train type.
Day 1
SHINJUKU STATION to HAKONE-YUMOTO STATION
We booked the 7:37 Romancecar to Hakone-Yumoto which is around 70~ minutes from Shinjuku. There are earlier trains but this was the earliest available upon booking, so best to book once you’re sure with your dates.
Upon arriving at Hakone-Yumoto, we transferred to the local line to Gora Station, the closest station to our hotel and where their free shuttle pickup is. After dropping our bags, we start our tour from Gora Station. We had the following attractions to check off: Owakudani, Togendai (sightseeing cruise aka pirate ship), Hakone Shrine and if time allowed, Amakase Tea House.
Note that there’s a lot of waiting time on top of actual commute time for the buses and cruise ship. Buses can get full easily too since they come every 20-30 minutes only, so allow for extra time. Also, during December to February, they do maintenance on the ropeway to/from Owakudani so depending on when you go, one way of the ropeway may be closed off, but substitute buses are available.
First stop: Owakudani.
To do: eat black eggs, and see the crater with sulfur vents. Is there a taste difference with the eggs cooked in the hot spring which makes their shells black? Not to us hahah cost was 500 yen for 4 eggs.
Next, we took the ropeway to Togendai which is where the sightseeing cruise/pirate ship docks to take tourists across the lake. Here you can see Mt. Fuji at the background and the Hakone Shrine.
After getting off at Motohakone-ko, we walked around 10 minutes to the Hakone Shrine, the photo spot with the tori gate by the lake. The line was long and time was of the essence since buses (at least the one free with the Hakone pass) stop operating around 4+, so we didn’t bother lining up. It was a nice nature walk there though.
Quite a few restaurants (which again closes early) on the main road of Motohakone, but we decided to go for the Family Mart near our hotel for dinner as we didn’t want to miss the bus.
Our hotel: Hakone Kowakien Ten-yu
We kind of decided our trip last minute and felt super lucky to still find an availability, considering it was a weekend, for a private in-room onsen at Hakone Kowakien Ten-yu I am not ready to go nude in public onsens, so private onsen is a must for me hahah if you feel the same, check them out as we had a great stay and worth the splurge - from the spacious lobby with warm foot baths right outside where you can enjoy the welcome teas, to their garden with the shrine and falls, free ice cream, a huge breakfast buffet selection - it was a 5 star experience. They do have 2 public onsens (separate for men and for women, and rotates daily) which from the photos, has an amazing view.
They do have a dinner package as well, but it was out of our budget (I think it was around 20,000 yen more), and we planned to look for a restaurant nearby but because of the bus time limitation and because we were a bit tired from the full day, we decided to go for the Family Mart across the street.
The onsen: first impression was HOT! The water was so hot, but after adjusting, it was so relaxing and refreshing. A great way to end a full day in the comfort and privacy of your room.
Day 2
AMASAKE TEA HOUSE - THE HAKONE OPEN AIR MUSEUM - BACK TO SHINJUKU
After an impressive breakfast buffet which unfortunately I feel was lost on my limited morning appetite, and one last onsen bath, we checked out of the hotel and headed to the Amakase Tea House. Again due to commute time constraints the previous day, we weren’t able to go after the Shrine as planned, but thankfully we still had day 2 to explore.
Under a thatched roof is this tea house pretty much in the middle of the forest with a nice outdoor seating area. They specialize in amakase, a warm and sweet, creamy rice drink which is almost like a very liquidy rice porridge, and mochi. Note that as of writing, they are cash only.
We got the soy bean and black sesame mochis which were good, and tried the miso-oden (konjac balls in savory sauce) but we didn’t like it xD it did come with a little note regarding the taste.
After the tea house, we got our luggages from the hotel, and conveniently the shuttle drops by the Hakone Open Air Museum, our last stop before heading back to Shinjuku. The museum entrance fee is 2,000 yen, with a 100 yen discount for Freepass ticket holders. It was a nice art in the park kind of feels there although I don’t think I’d go back again tbh.
After going around the museum, we took the train back to Hakone-Yumoto station to catch the Romancecar back to Shinjuku. Conveniently, there’s a train stop 3 minutes walk from the museum where I also booked our return Romancecar tickets (didn’t want to feel rushed at the tea house and museum).
Thanks for reading and hope this helps!
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